It’s been seven years since we first visited Lake Vrana and explored the area around it. At that time, we saw the Maškovića Han from the outside, a 17th century project for a retirement home with guest rooms attached that was never completed. Over time, some of the more easily portable materials were snaffled to…
At the far eastern end of Hvar, where it comes closest to the mainland, lies the port of Sućuraj. It’s a good long drive from our place, following the beautiful winding road along the ridge of the island. On the way you get stunning views north to Brač and the mountains of the mainland, and…
As part of Hvar’s Advent celebrations, everyone was invited to visit the Arsenal Theatre to see how the restoration works are progressing. It’s been closed for performances since the 2004 season, so we’re talking about a 14 year project so far, now hopefully coming to a successful conclusion, with a grand opening possibly in the Spring of 2019. Really excited about that, as it should include regular art exhibitions in the gallery, also on the same floor.
The name Dvigrad means “two town”, or perhaps “twin towns”. It’s tucked away in the Drago valley, which leads from Pazin to the sea. The actual river has gone underground at this point, only emerging in the Lim channel. In prehistoric times, this was a major highway to inland Istria, and later it became the…
There are over 300 Bronze Age hillforts around Istria, of which Monkodonja is one of the most impressive. Not simply for the glorious location and the massive defensive walls, but the careful interpretive boards that really help you to visualise what it was like when it was inhabited. Monkodonja means Quince Mountain in the local…
From the top of Istria, we now headed back in time to try and find a glimpse of the Histri, the iron-age tribe after which Istria is named. Displaced by the Romans in 177 BC, their last stand was at the hill-fort of Nesactium (or Vizače in the Istrian dialect). The site takes a bit…
One of Split’s most famous citizens can be seen in the Trg braće Radić (aka Voćni trg /Fruit Square). Standing high above the crowds, Marko Marulić is impressive in his long bronze robes, holding a large tablet on which he writes intently. The characterisation in this statue is wonderful, for this is the father of Croatian literature, a lawyer and judge by day, a leading Renaissance humanist, and one of the first authors in the Croatian language. The statue, of course, is by the wonderful Ivan Meštrović, unveiled in 1925.
This December, we came across a new custom in the villages of Hvar. Well, I say new, but only to us, and it turned out only the name was truly unfamiliar. Kolendanje is the local variation of very old folk custom in Croatia, with versions in many other Slavic countries. When we arrived at the…
Stari Grad’s 2400th birthday was a really good party over several days with lots going on and a great atmosphere. Sadly, I failed to take my camera along to the evening event as I didn’t realize it would be so spectacular, but I do have a few taken with my phone. I loved the way…
Stari Grad 2400 Celebrations and Days of the Bay Festival This year marks the 2,400th anniversary of the founding of Faros by Greek settlers. It’s Stari Grad’s official entry into recorded history, although there was actually an Illyrian settlement in place already. If only they’d also written things down, we’d probably need 3,000 candles on…
Go Hvar 
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