Rijeka is known as the city that flows (grad koji teče). Not just for the Rječina river, but it seems they also have more rain here. Another thing we learnt about Rijeka is that its museums and galleries, several of which we planned to visit, are closed on Mondays. We arrived on a Sunday evening…
We’re following part of the beautiful Adriatic highway up the coast from Split to Rijeka, the Jadranska Magistrala in Croatian or more prosaically the D8. Various earlier sections of road were connected up during 1945-1965 to form a complete coastal route from Trieste via Rovinj and Pula all the way down to the Albanian border.…
I love the winter on Hvar. It’s a time when we can enjoy having that gorgeous scenery all to ourselves. Although we have had some rain, there have also been lots of sunny days when the great outdoors just has to be explored. January and February are perfect months for hiking, with comfortable temperatures and…
It’s been an interesting Spring, rather wetter than usual, so we really appreciate when the sun comes out. That’s especially true when the forecast said clouds and rain, but outside the window we have a perfect blue sky! So it was on Thursday last week, and we took ourselves up to Pitve to hike the…
The inland villages of Hvar are connected by a network of old pathways, in use since medieval times. Some are rough tracks you can drive on (given a vehicle with suitably high clearance), while others are walking trails, somewhat rocky in places and which may at times lead you into tangled patches of brambles. These…
March is certainly throwing a serious amount of weather at us, and such a variety too! After last week’s snowfall and overnight frosts, we’d resumed a more normal temperature, and were really enjoying some quite warm balmy days. And then this morning, we were caught totally unawares by a hailstorm as we took our walk…
This past month we’ve been exploring some of the pathways that connect villagers to their fields. These are old routes criss-crossing the Stari Grad Plain, some wide enough for an ox cart, others narrow and winding for walking, perhaps donkey-width. They make perfect hiking trails, especially on autumn days when the sun is not too…
There’s something magical about the quality of the light in December. It seems to have a soft warm glow to it, even although the air temperature can be fairly brisk in the early morning. Sunrise is, of course, a little later and noticably further south than it was in summer. As far as Vrboska is…
Our week of exploring the Dalmatian coast is up and it’s time for us to head back home. On the way, though, we’ll be visiting another of Croatia’s National Parks – the spectacular Paklenica canyons. Velebit mountain is a huge coastal ridge, part of the Dinaric range bordering the eastern side of the Adriatic coast…
Is there an equivalent term to “hedgerows” for fields that are marked out by drystone walls rather than hedges? You know, that protected area bordering paths and around the fields where the natural vegetation still thrives, and native wildflowers hide among the greenery? If not, there ought to be. The recent change in the weather…
Go Hvar 
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