On the way into Stari Grad from Dol, there’s a small chapel by the roadside, with a rather curious carving of a bear above the door. This is the 16th century chapel of Sv Jelina, and it stands where the Slavic goddess Mokoš was previously worshipped. The sacred triangle of Perun – Veles – Mokoš can still be read in the landscape if you know where to look!
I love the winter on Hvar. It’s a time when we can enjoy having that gorgeous scenery all to ourselves. Although we have had some rain, there have also been lots of sunny days when the great outdoors just has to be explored. January and February are perfect months for hiking, with comfortable temperatures and…
We’ve been enjoying the springtime sight of Hvar’s wild flowers for many years now. I’ve taken lots of photos, diligently looked up their names and created flower guides to keep track of what we’ve learned. But until quite recently, I’d not seen any wild orchids on our wanderings. They are quite seasonal, so you have to be on the lookout in April and May, and know what you’re looking for. So the first few orchids had to be pointed out to me, after which I got the idea, and started to look more carefully. It’s amazing how many of these delicate flowers are there among the greenery, just waiting to be seen!
The inland villages of Hvar are connected by a network of old pathways, in use since medieval times. Some are rough tracks you can drive on (given a vehicle with suitably high clearance), while others are walking trails, somewhat rocky in places and which may at times lead you into tangled patches of brambles. These…
The village of Vrbanj is home to Frane Abramović, and his ceramics studio. Through the Udruga Varbonj society, he organizes an international ceramic art colony each summer. Ceramicists from around Europe participate, and an exhibition of their work from last summer, “Varbonj 2017“, is on now in the Zvijezda Mora church in Hvar (Open: 21st…
Last night was a real treat. The Croatian national folk ensemble, LADO, gave a concert of Christmas songs in Vrbanj church. They’ve been responsible for researching and preserving music and dances from all around Croatia, and we were very happy to find their Christmas tour included TWO dates in nearby Vrbanj. The musicians were playing…
This September, a group of artists from California joined me for a week’s sketching and painting in some of my favourite locations around Hvar. And as we usually do on these occasions, we explored some of the excellent local wines (very important, that!) and the rich cultural heritage that makes this island so special. The theme each…
I’ve wanted for some time to write an article about the Hvar statute of 1331, which appears to be everyone’s favourite supporting evidence for the antiquity of their village, church, tower, field or whatever. Does it actually support all these claims, I wondered? Does a codex of law actually mention all these places? And what…
Hvar is the island of wine, and in many vineyards the grapes are ripening, almost ready for harvest. Our 5th day of painting took us right in amongst some old vines, near the village of Svirče. As vineyards go, this one is rather impressive, mostly large rocks with pockets of soil for the vines. Around…
Having renovated an old stone house ourselves, we’re always interested to see what other people make of theirs. Dalmatia has such a wealth of old stone buildings and it’s good when an old derelict comes to life again as a new home. One fine example is The Quaich, tucked away in deepest Vrbanj. Ten years…
Go Hvar 
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