Split’s Croatian National Theatre (HNK) has a full winter program of drama, opera and ballet, including the Nutcracker, although it took me a minute or two to recognise that under the name of “Orašar” in the schedule! Advance publicity and booking is curiously restricted to just one month ahead, making forward planning slightly tricky for…
Happy New Year to one and all! We celebrated the arrival of 2018 in Stari Grad, a place that has seen the passing of more years than most other cities. The main party was set up in Tvrdalj square with live music by Aurora, and fireworks at midnight. The square was looking very pretty and…
Last night was a real treat. The Croatian national folk ensemble, LADO, gave a concert of Christmas songs in Vrbanj church. They’ve been responsible for researching and preserving music and dances from all around Croatia, and we were very happy to find their Christmas tour included TWO dates in nearby Vrbanj. The musicians were playing…
The very picturesque town of Omiš nestles at the foot of the high coastal mountains, just where the Cetina river breaks through to reach the Adriatic. It’s a spectacular location, a narrow gateway in the sheer mountain wall, with the town clustered on the flat area around the mouth of the river. We visited at the end of July, for the grand finale of the Festival of Dalmatian Klapa.
Every so often, a song will haunt me, even if I don’t quite understand the lyrics. Recently it’s been the beautiful song composed by Ivan Badurina, Frane Bilić and Andrej Baša, performed by Klapa Maslina: Da te mogu pismom zvati – If I could call you with a song. Sung first at the Šibenik festival…
Tin Ujević was a real character, a bohemian kind of chap, a storyteller who frequented cafés and bars in the first half of the 20th century. He was one of Croatia’s best-loved poets, still is in fact, though he died 60 years ago this year. His work lives on in common culture, and just about…
Ruža Crvena (or sometimes Ružo Crvena) is one of the most popular songs for klapa groups, with its haunting melody and poignant words. It sounds fantastic in 4-part harmony, and we all love to sing along with the chorus. You’d think it was a traditional Dalmatian song, but no, it was actually composed in the early…
This week marked the anniversary of the Battle of Lepanto on 7th October 1571, which still ranks as one of the major events in the history of the Mediterranean, and indeed around the world. The Ottoman fleet was defeated by the Holy League in what was the last sea battle to be fought by man-powered…
Klapa singing is fine tradition in Dalmatia, with multi-part harmonies and no instruments necessary. From childhood on, many Dalmatians sing in groups for the sheer enjoyment of it. Informally sitting around a table in bars or restaurants, or as a more formal presentation in public spaces or on a stage. And it’s wonderful to listen…
Jelsa, it seems, can throw a really good party. Last night’s festival of wine and Jazz was a fine evening’s entertainment in a lovely setting. The entire waterfront was sparkling as we arrived shortly after the 8pm start. We strolled around, looking to see what was where, enjoying the wafting smells of food being prepared…
Go Hvar 
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