From Rijeka, we follow the coast road down trough Opatija and Lovran, enjoying the old Austro-Hungarian buildings and gardens, and the views over the Kvarner gulf and the islands floating out there. Although it’s around midday, the clouds are still dark and heavy after the storm, but we can see it clearing as we head…
Rijeka is known as the city that flows (grad koji teče). Not just for the Rječina river, but it seems they also have more rain here. Another thing we learnt about Rijeka is that its museums and galleries, several of which we planned to visit, are closed on Mondays. We arrived on a Sunday evening…
It’s been seven years since we first visited Lake Vrana and explored the area around it. At that time, we saw the Maškovića Han from the outside, a 17th century project for a retirement home with guest rooms attached that was never completed. Over time, some of the more easily portable materials were snaffled to…
At the far eastern end of Hvar, where it comes closest to the mainland, lies the port of Sućuraj. It’s a good long drive from our place, following the beautiful winding road along the ridge of the island. On the way you get stunning views north to Brač and the mountains of the mainland, and…
As part of Hvar’s Advent celebrations, everyone was invited to visit the Arsenal Theatre to see how the restoration works are progressing. It’s been closed for performances since the 2004 season, so we’re talking about a 14 year project so far, now hopefully coming to a successful conclusion, with a grand opening possibly in the Spring of 2019. Really excited about that, as it should include regular art exhibitions in the gallery, also on the same floor.
The name Dvigrad means “two town”, or perhaps “twin towns”. It’s tucked away in the Drago valley, which leads from Pazin to the sea. The actual river has gone underground at this point, only emerging in the Lim channel. In prehistoric times, this was a major highway to inland Istria, and later it became the…
One of Istria’s most iconic towns is the lovely Rovinj, which we last visited as students many moons ago. In going back, I was a little afraid that the intervening years and busloads of tourists would rub the magic off my carefree happy memories of the place. But as it turned out, Rovinj in September…
It’s been nearly 5 years since we took the old Liburnia ferry from Stari Grad down the coast to Dubrovnik. That took a leisurely 8 hours, including stops at Korčula town and the island of Mljet. Things are speedier now. Krilo’s fast catamaran service does basically the same trip (leaving from Hvar, not Stari Grad)…
The town of Ston, and its partner Mali Ston lie at the base of the Pelješac peninsula. This place is famous for its salt, an extremely valuable commodity in past times, and the lagoon with its salt ponds was vigorously defended by Dubrovnik, who owned the local salt trade. To keep it safe from predatory…
On our trip up the north Dalmatian coast last year, we missed seeing Asseria. It had been high on my list of ancient ruins to visit, but hey, you can’t do everything at once and it gave us an excellent reason to go back that way. It’s an iron-age hillfort, originally built by the Liburnians,…
Go Hvar 
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