House in Prapatna

Reflections on Prapatna

When we first started looking at properties on Hvar, one of the houses that really caught my imagination was in Prapatna. It was a gorgeous stone house with walled garden, right on the seafront. Sure, it needed a bit of work, but boy, what a stunning location! In the end, because the practicalities of life…

Vrboska upper harbour and bri

Up with the sun in Vrboska

I really enjoy getting up early in Vrboska, especially on a sunny day. Even with the grilles on our shutters firmly closed,  I can still tell that the sun is about to appear and it’s time to be out and about. From the top floor of our house, we have a view of the sunrise…

Humac ruins with view over Brac

Humac – amongst the ruins at sunset

You might think that Humac is a deserted village, but appearances are misleading. This is a seasonal village, where people from Vrisnik could be close to additional fields and grazing. Most of the houses now look fairly run-down, if not actually derelict, but here and there you can see signs of recent activity. And, of…

Massive walls at Purkin Kuk

Purkin Kuk – a prehistoric hillfort

Following my previous blog on Hvar’s drystone walls, I’m moving backwards in time beyond the Greek colonists to the Illyrians, who lived here before them. Between 2,000 and 1,000 B.C. the population began to settle on hilltops. Their huts were defended by ditches and stone ramparts some of which were massive. One of these hilltop…

Trim

Trims – the stone huts of Hvar

Set here and there amongst the walled fields of Hvar’s agricultural landscape, you’ll see stone shelters. I’m not talking here about the newer type of weekend houses that have sprung up – complete with BBQ and shady terrace for Sunday lunch. No, the ones I mean are much older, of drystone construction, and some have…

Dry stone walls on the hillsides of Hvar

Dry stone walls

Dry stone walls are as much part of the landscape here on Hvar as they are in my native Scotland. Over there, they pretty much hold sheep in, but on the Dalmatian coast they’re entirely necessary to hold in the soil. There would simply be no agriculture in this steep, karst environment without the back-breaking…

Hvar landscape 2

Two Hvar landscapes

It’s awfully easy to depend on taking photographs when you travel. We all do it. It’s a quick way to capture what you see, and wonderful to have an album to look back on later. But I have to tell you, sketching is better! You have to look longer, pay more attention, and think about…

Želko's cove

More painting on the beach

I’ve decided I much prefer a rocky shoreline to pebble or shingle beaches. For a start it’s easier on the feet, but also so much more interesting for sketching or painting. I’m sure the ever popular Milna beach is great for families, but the north shore of Glavica gives me a view of Zečevo island,…

Vineyard

A Walk in the Ager

We set out early this morning for a walk in the fields while it was still cool and pleasant. The “streets” of the Stari Grad Plain are wide enough for carts, and generally run in an easy-to-navigate grid pattern, though at the eastern end they tend to turn and meander a little more. Connecting the…

Painting on the beach

Most people go to the beach to lie around, have a swim and get a tan. For the locals of all ages, it’s nice and cool in the water to hang out and chat with your friends. Me, I take my paints to the beach. After a swim to cool down, I park myself on…