I really enjoy getting up early in Vrboska, especially on a sunny day. Even with the grilles on our shutters firmly closed, I can still tell that the sun is about to appear and it’s time to be out and about. From the top floor of our house, we have a view of the sunrise over the marina. Depending on the weather conditions and the time of year, the colours range from delicate pastels to spectacular oranges and reds. I like to have a go at capturing the effects on camera – try if I can get anywhere close to what I’m seeing!
The early morning is a good time for a walk. The bakeries on the waterfront open at 6:30am, and I particularly like walnut pastries, which seem to disappear quickly off the shelves! Best to be there promptly. It’s a remarkable thing that a village of 400 or so supports 2 or 3 bakeries, in addition to the supermarkets. Having chosen my breakfast, I’ll wander home whichever way takes my fancy, enjoying the sights at this peaceful time of day.
The two largest boats drawn up at the quayside represent the old and the new industry. Andrija is a tour boat, taking visitors for day trips across the channel to Bol, while Bako is the last of Vrboska’s commercial fishing fleet.
On a sunny morning, the reflections are almost completely perfect, just a few ripples to tell you which way is up – fantastic! A walk along the north shore provides some lovely views back over the old part of town with the high defensive walls of St Mary’s church rising above the stone houses.
The coast path is a favourite walk of ours in the late afternoon, but then again, it’s also beautiful in the morning sun. Great for taking photos, as the buildings light up from this direction!
There’s always something interesting to see on the waterfront. In this case, a fishing boat had sunk, just by the boatyard, its deck, just under the surface, perfectly lit by the sun.
In the upper harbour, the effect of the calm water and perfect reflections is even more striking. This particular photo was, I think, taken in November. That’s judging by the boat parked on trestles by the waterside for repainting and repair (see also the close up below). In September or October there would be wine barrels there being washed out for the new harvest, while in summer there would be a line of parked cars. Timing is everything with photography!
The upper harbour in Vrboska is just like a canal, with wonderful stone houses lining each side. Some of them date back to the 16th century, the very beginning of this settlement, when it became safe (well, almost), to live by the sea. The aforementioned fortress church of St Mary’s is a clear sign that it wasn’t very safe!
From the waterfront, it’s always uphill home! There’s one street leading up from the Riva to the piaca around St Mary’s church that has been smoothed out to allow cars to use it – into first gear and take it slow! And thoughtfully, there’s a bollard that prevents you ending up in the water! Otherwise, the backstreets of Vrboska have steps.
Having to walk around town makes it very peaceful, and you get to see more. This cat was happily snoozing on the red tile roof as I walked up the alley next to it. It’s a good lesson on never go out without a camera!
Away from the main area, the “streets” get narrower. This would be donkey-width, or perhaps you could get a moped up here? These alleys lead from houses to fields, and for some houses, this must be the main entrance way.
I think you could still get a bicycle up this street, but you may want to carry it, as the ground is getting a bit rough!
I think this is the narrowest part I found so far – beautifully paved, but rather twisty with stone corners. What a lovely street!
And lastly, after our walk, we come to breakfast! This particular morning it was coffee and pastry at the waterside cafe as a special treat.