On the way into Stari Grad from Dol, there’s a small chapel by the roadside, with a rather curious carving of a bear above the door. This is the 16th century chapel of Sv Jelina, and it stands where the Slavic goddess Mokoš was previously worshipped. The sacred triangle of Perun – Veles – Mokoš can still be read in the landscape if you know where to look!
We’ve been enjoying the springtime sight of Hvar’s wild flowers for many years now. I’ve taken lots of photos, diligently looked up their names and created flower guides to keep track of what we’ve learned. But until quite recently, I’d not seen any wild orchids on our wanderings. They are quite seasonal, so you have to be on the lookout in April and May, and know what you’re looking for. So the first few orchids had to be pointed out to me, after which I got the idea, and started to look more carefully. It’s amazing how many of these delicate flowers are there among the greenery, just waiting to be seen!
The inland villages of Hvar are connected by a network of old pathways, in use since medieval times. Some are rough tracks you can drive on (given a vehicle with suitably high clearance), while others are walking trails, somewhat rocky in places and which may at times lead you into tangled patches of brambles. These…
While I’m on the topic of art to see on Hvar, I must also mention one of the most beautiful art studios that I’ve ever been in – Marinka’s very creative and inspiring atelier in the village of Dol. This is a place to come to enjoy her art, and that of Marin Ribarić, but…
Our schedule for this year was shuffled a little from the original plan, so it was on Sunday that we visited local artist Marinka in her studio. As this was our last day, it was a perfect opportunity to finish up paintings and hold our final review. It was lovely to see Marinka’s watercolours too,…
One of the most impressive buildings on the Stari Grad waterfront has recently been renovated in fine style and will be opening for the season as the classy boutique Hotel Apolon. The restaurant opened a couple of weeks ago, and we went along to see how it all looks. This was originally the villa of…
Mary’s Art Adventures Following our recent art retreat on Hvar, California artist Mary Paquet has posted a couple of articles on her blog about the experience, and shares her artwork from the trip. Thanks, Mary! Her blog also includes entertaining stories of her travels to other places armed with a painting kit! Mary’s Art Adventures…
For our third day, we retreated to Dol, and the wonderfully creative space that is Marinka’s studio. Overnight, the long summer’s drought had broken, and we’d been treated to a crashing sound and light show with so much rain that it sounded like a waterfall off our roof. Thankfully, Wednesday dawned bright, clear and sparkling.…
After finding our way to all the other sites on the Archaeological Paths map provided by the Stari Grad tourist board, we thought it would be a doddle to visit Hum – Sveti Vid. Who needs signposts, anyway? You can see the hill perfectly well, it’s just a matter of working out which path takes…
Following my previous blog on Hvar’s drystone walls, I’m moving backwards in time beyond the Greek colonists to the Illyrians, who lived here before them. Between 2,000 and 1,000 B.C. the population began to settle on hilltops. Their huts were defended by ditches and stone ramparts some of which were massive. One of these hilltop…
Go Hvar 
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