On a winter’s day, a rocky trail by the sea

One sunny afternoon recently, we took ourselves out for a walk after lunch. We hadn’t thought to go exploring new trails, only to take a roundabout route up the hill to the nearby 16th century watchtower for the views. But instead, we found ourselves drawn to the shoreline and the water. Our path brought us…

Total National Defense Tunnel

If you look carefully at the head of the Cabal Peninsula as the ferry passes by, you’ll see a lighthouse. And to the left of the lighthouse are tunnels and gun emplacements for the defense of the shipping lanes. The tunnels date from 1969, one year on from the invasion of Czechoslovakia by the Soviet-led…

Glavica Hill – Watching out over Stari Grad

There’s a large stone cross on Glavica, the hill overlooking Stari Grad on the north shore. It makes a very useful marker, as it can be seen from miles around. Conversely, of course, from the top of Glavica, you have great views over the surrounding countryside, and the approach into Stari Grad harbour. The cross…

On top of the island – up to Sveti Nikola

We walked up to Sv Nikola yesterday, that’s the island’s highest peak. I won’t try to pretend that we walked all the way up, in fact we drove most of the way. The road leads up from the end of the Selca tunnel, the turning nicely signposted. The larger, more noticeable sign is for Kolumbić…

Rumblings under the Adriatic

Yesterday’s 4.7 earthquake near Vrgorac was heard more than felt in our part of Hvar. The epicentre was about 50 kilometres from here, close to the mainland, just south of Hvar’s eastern tip. I’m sure they would have felt rather more of a jolt in Sučuraj. For us, in the supermarket in Vrboska, it sounded…

On a Slow Boat to Dubrovnik

During the summer months, Jadrolinija runs a coastal ferry service from Rijeka in the north to Dubrovnik in the south, taking all night and all day about it. Calling in at Split, Stari Grad on Hvar, then Korčula and Mljet, until quite recently the route also included Bari in Italy. Going further back into the…