Dry stone walls are as much part of the landscape here on Hvar as they are in my native Scotland. Over there, they pretty much hold sheep in, but on the Dalmatian coast they’re entirely necessary to hold in the soil. There would simply be no agriculture in this steep, karst environment without the back-breaking…
There are lions on Hvar. You can see them lurking on walls and gateways, looking out with a rather pained expression. It’s the symbol of St Mark, the winged lion of Venice, showing that this island was once part of the Venetian empire. From 1278, when the locals petitioned Venice for protection from the pirates,…
2018 marks the 450th anniversary of the publication of Ribanje i Ribarsko Prigovaranje (On Fishing and Fishermen’s Tales), Petar Hektorović’s classic travelogue poem. It’s a fascinating tale of a three day sailing trip from Stari Hvar to Šolta, though the old language of the original makes for a tricky read, even for Croatians. Here’s the…
My favourite time of day here is the early morning, especially in the heat of a Hvar summer. It’s fresh and cool then, the water surface is like polished glass, and we get soft lighting low from the east. What a perfect time to take the camera for a walk! The houses in the pjaca…
I wanted to share this blog post from Geomir with some remarkable historical photos and sketches of Vrboska… http://geomir.blog.hr/2010/10/1628290774/vrboska.html The old postcards are fun – “Greetings from Verbosca”, and I love the drawings – great stuff!
Kupinovik is the site of an ancient Roman villa rustica on the Stari Grad plain. It was a country house belonging to a Roman citizen in the first century AD, one Gaj Kornficiji Kar, a Decurion in Faria, who used to grow grapes and olives in the surrounding fields. Back then, it would have been…
I’m not a wine expert, just a happy enthusiast. We like to try the local wines wherever we go, and it’s got us into trouble more than once – most notably on Sicily some years ago when we managed to get lost in Catania’s tiny municipal park on our way back to our hotel from…
Tvrdalj in Stari Grad is a fine example of a fortified summer residence, best known for its fish pond in the courtyard. Wikipedia lists Tvrdalj as a castle – but that seems a rather grand description to me. Looking at the collection of buildings around the fishpond, and the lovely walled gardens, all set in…
Unlike the Greek settlers before them, the ancient Romans made themselves much more comfortable on the island. Of course it helps that they owned the mainland – Dalmatia was a Roman province, with a large city at Salona, on the sheltered northern harbour of today’s Split. The modern city of Split started life as the…
Maslinovik is an old watchtower set on a hill on the north side of the Stari Grad Plain. Built in the 4th century BC by the ancient Greek settlers, it formed part of the line of defence for the fields, running from the town of Pharos (today’s Stari Grad) to Tor, a second watchtower set…
Go Hvar 
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