Tin Ujević was a real character, a bohemian kind of chap, a storyteller who frequented cafés and bars in the first half of the 20th century. He was one of Croatia’s best-loved poets, still is in fact, though he died 60 years ago this year. His work lives on in common culture, and just about…
For most of us, seaplanes seem an echo from the past, a remnant of times gone by, when travel was more adventurous, more glamorous. But they’re also visions of the future for Europe’s many islands and remote coastal areas – for example Scotland’s west coast, the Croatian islands, Italy and Greece. And around the rest…
It’s good to see traditional island products being made, especially when given an innovative twist. And although everyone and their granny has their recipe for marmalade, it’s highly unusual to find a tomato marmalade – and very yummy it is too! We found it pairs excellently well with cheese. The marmalade in question is made…
Ruža Crvena (or sometimes Ružo Crvena) is one of the most popular songs for klapa groups, with its haunting melody and poignant words. It sounds fantastic in 4-part harmony, and we all love to sing along with the chorus. You’d think it was a traditional Dalmatian song, but no, it was actually composed in the early…
September is harvest season on Hvar! You can smell it in the air, you can hear the clatter of the processing equipment, and everyone, it seems, is up early and picking grapes. It’s known here as “jematva”, elsewhere in Croatia as “berba”. Once the summer tourist season ends, everyone turns into a winemaker!
Looking for a light and tasty lunch in Jelsa today, we thought to try the recently opened Artichoke, which comes highly recommended by Total Hvar. It’s in a great location on the Riva, just next to the boat club, so has a lovely view of the harbour. Owner Dino Pavičić, who also started the Mojito…
A poster attracted our attention a couple of days ago. “Presentation of Robotics” on the Riva in Vrboska. Intrigued we sauntered down to the waterfront (Riva in Croatian) and wintessed a fun spectacle. There was a bunch of enthusiastic primary and secondary school kids crowded around a bunch of machines. It turns out Croatia is…
Arriving on Pag at the southern end across a big blue bridge, it felt like we’d landed on Mars. This is a very stark landscape, with red rocks strewn everywhere, no vegetation whatever, and the massive wall of Velebit looming across the channel. The lack of anything growing on the side of the island facing…
Interesting how the fates of two nearby prehistoric settlements should go in such different directions. Take for instance Iader and Aenona, both Liburnian towns on the Dalmatian coast, within about 14 km (9 miles) of each other. Both were mentioned by Pliny the Elder some 3,000 years ago. Iader is now a thriving city with…
Zadar is one of the few places on this trip that we’ve visited before, but that was only as a quick detour and we hadn’t actually stayed overnight. The old city is a lovely place to stay, as you can forget about driving, and simply walk around. And after dark it gets particularly magical! Anyway,…
Go Hvar 
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