2018 marks the 450th anniversary of the publication of Ribanje i Ribarsko Prigovaranje (On Fishing and Fishermen’s Tales), Petar Hektorović’s classic travelogue poem. It’s a fascinating tale of a three day sailing trip from Stari Hvar to Šolta, though the old language of the original makes for a tricky read, even for Croatians. Here’s the…
My favourite time of day here is the early morning, especially in the heat of a Hvar summer. It’s fresh and cool then, the water surface is like polished glass, and we get soft lighting low from the east. What a perfect time to take the camera for a walk! The houses in the pjaca…
I wanted to share this blog post from Geomir with some remarkable historical photos and sketches of Vrboska… http://geomir.blog.hr/2010/10/1628290774/vrboska.html The old postcards are fun – “Greetings from Verbosca”, and I love the drawings – great stuff!
Vrboska has a new website. The tourist office has recently launched a completely redesigned site that will tell you about this lovely little place, and what’s to see and do during your visit. The content isn’t quite there yet, but it’s a good start and has the advantage of being in English. It already has…
Kupinovik is the site of an ancient Roman villa rustica on the Stari Grad plain. It was a country house belonging to a Roman citizen in the first century AD, one Gaj Kornficiji Kar, a Decurion in Faria, who used to grow grapes and olives in the surrounding fields. Back then, it would have been…
I’m not a wine expert, just a happy enthusiast. We like to try the local wines wherever we go, and it’s got us into trouble more than once – most notably on Sicily some years ago when we managed to get lost in Catania’s tiny municipal park on our way back to our hotel from…
Tvrdalj in Stari Grad is a fine example of a fortified summer residence, best known for its fish pond in the courtyard. Wikipedia lists Tvrdalj as a castle – but that seems a rather grand description to me. Looking at the collection of buildings around the fishpond, and the lovely walled gardens, all set in…
Unlike the Greek settlers before them, the ancient Romans made themselves much more comfortable on the island. Of course it helps that they owned the mainland – Dalmatia was a Roman province, with a large city at Salona, on the sheltered northern harbour of today’s Split. The modern city of Split started life as the…
Maslinovik is an old watchtower set on a hill on the north side of the Stari Grad Plain. Built in the 4th century BC by the ancient Greek settlers, it formed part of the line of defence for the fields, running from the town of Pharos (today’s Stari Grad) to Tor, a second watchtower set…
It can be tricky for non-locals to find a house on the island given its address, even with a good map. That’s because street addresses here generally go along the lines of Bez Ime b.b. – meaning street without name and house without number (bez broja)! When ordering something, let’s say furniture, in a shop or…
Go Hvar 
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