Saša Špiranec guides us through a tasting of the 2011 harvest

Learning about the best Plavac Mali wines – where do they come from?

Plavac Mali is a relative of Zinfandel in California, and Primitivo in Italy, so we’re generally comfortable that we know what a glass of Plavac will taste like. However, growing this Dalmatian native in its own, frankly marginal terrain can give very different results depending on the the soil, environment, heat, sea, rocks, etc, etc. We recently attended a guided tasting by Croatian wine authority, Saša Spiranec of some of the best Plavac wines from the prestigious locations throughout Dalmatia, to assess the quality, style and aging potential.

Island hopping: Korčula from end to end (part 2)

After a great start to our tour of Korčula, we arrived at the town on the island most visited by passing tourists. Set out on its promontary, fortified all around and bristling with artillery, for centuries this small town guarded a strategic shipping channel. Korčula is the name both of the town and the island,…

Island hopping: exploring Korčula from end to end (part 1)

Last September, on our way from Hvar to Dubrovnik we called in briefly at Korčula. Now, I don’t think it really counts as visiting the island if you stay on the ferry, and don’t actually set foot on land. But we liked what we saw, so a couple of weeks ago, we set out to…

Tasting the Best of Dalmatian food and wine – Dalmacija Wine Expo 2014

The annual showcase of Dalmatian wines is always a great opportunity to taste and compare the various offerings. We’ve been to nearly every one since it first opened in Makarska five years ago. Back then it was rather more informal, held in a sports hall with a fine collection of Dalmatia’s wine producers, including even…

Vinarija Miloš: organic wines from Pelješac – a family tradition

Last month, we were invited to learn about Miloš wines at a party in San Francisco. It was a great opportunity to taste their range of wines, and to meet the next generation of Miloš vinters, who were passing through on a tour of the U.S. Hopefully soon we’ll go and visit the Miloš winery…

Drystone Field Shelter built in England’s Peak District National Park

Following my last post, it was pointed out to me that a Croatian drystone field shelter (the Istrian version, called a kažun) was built last summer at the Peak District National Park in Derbyshire. Located beside the Peak Trail at Parsley Hay, the kažun fits nicely into the local environment, which is also a limestone…

A Day Out in Dubrovnik

Incredibly, it’s been over 30 years since our last visit to Dubrovnik as students exploring the coast of what was then Yugoslavia in an old VW beetle. Not much seems to have changed as we arrive at the Pile Gate, and head into the walled city. But of course, much has changed for the residents…

On a Slow Boat to Dubrovnik

During the summer months, Jadrolinija runs a coastal ferry service from Rijeka in the north to Dubrovnik in the south, taking all night and all day about it. Calling in at Split, Stari Grad on Hvar, then Korčula and Mljet, until quite recently the route also included Bari in Italy. Going further back into the…

A Culinary Star and a Bikers’ Convention in Makarska

To round off an afternoon of wine tasting, the Dalmacija Wine Expo brings in some of Croatia’s best chefs to prepare dinner at local restaurants. The menus of these Culinary Stars are published online, so you can choose in advance which of these gastronomic feasts you want to indulge in. Not an easy choice, as…

Day tripping from Hvar – an artful afternoon in Split

The Gallery of Fine Arts in Split is a lovely place to see some local art. It’s housed in a fine old building tucked away behind Diocletian’s Palace, an easy walk from the Riva and the ferries.

Go Hvar

Ramblings about a far island…

Beyond