May is a lovely time of year to explore the Hvar countryside, and we’ve been taking a look at some of the rather scenic vineyards on the island. The vines are neatly clipped and the new growth is sprouting well, with flowers in bud. The Dalmatian coast had a cold snap at the end of April, and many vineyards on the mainland suffered frost damage. From Hvar, Biokovo looked magnificent covered in snow!

Biokovo on the mainland covered in snow

Stari Grad Plain

The Stari Grad Plain, also known as the Ager or Chora, is flat agricultural land with a long history of growing grapes. Today’s field structure was originally laid out  with stone walls by the ancient Greeks, improved upon by the ancient Romans and tended by generations of islanders ever since. You’ll find several indigenous white varieties here, including Bogdanuša, Kuć, and Prč, plus some Pošip and reds such as Plavac mali, Darnekuša and also a few foreign varieties.

Vineyards and olive groves

Flat vineyards, rich soil

Vines and olives are traditional crops

Rich red soil on the plain

view over the Stari Grad Plain

Vrboska fields

Field hut in traditional style

Stones are removed and piled up

Kupinovik remains of Roman villa

Stone walls and vines

Drystone walls protect the vines

Terraced vineyards, north side

The next level up from the flat plain are the fields around Jelsa, increasingly terraced as the valley rises towards Svirče and on upwards. The terraces get ever more rugged, with large lumps of rock, and narrower steps between the walls. Remarkably, there are even the occasional patches of sandy soil, fairly high up on the mountain. Here and there are valleys hidden away from view – and critically, from the icy bura wind in winter!

View down the valley

Plavac mali

Poppies in the vineyard

Steep steps of Krušvica

The village of Svirče

Wild vine

High protected valley

Rugged terraces

New growth

Gnarly old vines

Rocky vineyard

Terraces near Svirče

South slopes – Ivan Dolac & Sv Nedilja

The south-facing vineyards are the most spectacular, and from here come some of Hvar’s best known wines. Interestingly, they were developed by the villagers on the north side of the mountain, who would have to walk over the top to work the fields. Not for the faint-hearted, you really need a good head for heights to work here – not to mention strong legs!! No automation possible on these slopes.

Above Sv Nelija

Vineyards above Ivan Dolac

Sharp drop to the sea!

Vines above Ivan Dolac

Ivan Dolac slopes

South beach vineyard

See that notch in the rock? That’s where the donkey trail crosses!

Plenković tasting rooms

Sveta Nedelja

Hvar fields

On the rolling hills along the road into Hvar town is a another set of terraced vineyards and olive groves, known as the Hvarska polja.

Top of the island

One of the most impressive vineyards lies right on top of the island, looking like the vines are planted in rock. Sadly, its production is only potential right now, as funding for it was withdrawn. We can only imagine what wine could have been made from these vines.

High vineyard overlooking Korčula

Planted in rock