In October and November, once the grape harvest is over, it’s time to pick olives. Our neighbours have been busy, raking the fruit off the trees, collecting it on netting spread on the ground. The boxes of olives are then taken along to an uljara to be processed into oil. One such uljara is Radojković…
This past month we’ve been exploring some of the pathways that connect villagers to their fields. These are old routes criss-crossing the Stari Grad Plain, some wide enough for an ox cart, others narrow and winding for walking, perhaps donkey-width. They make perfect hiking trails, especially on autumn days when the sun is not too…
Arriving on Pag at the southern end across a big blue bridge, it felt like we’d landed on Mars. This is a very stark landscape, with red rocks strewn everywhere, no vegetation whatever, and the massive wall of Velebit looming across the channel. The lack of anything growing on the side of the island facing…
